3/28/2018 – Day 19

Double Spring Gap Shelter to Icewater Spring Shelter – 13.6 miles

Tented last night and it was not so bad. It wasn’t raining in the morning. Another foggy/cloudy/windy day. No view up at Clingman’s Dome, except white clouds. Still went up and recorded myself playing p-bone. Got a section hiker to drive me to town to resupply. So. Many. People. I have no wish to go to Gatlinburg ever again. I let 2 girls move my slide while I played my p-bone at Newfound Gap. So adorable. Also, the Australians caught up and are staying in this shelter tonight.

There was no sun. Very cold and windy morning, but I finally made it to Clingman’s Dome, the tallest point on the AT! At the top, there is a tower that is supposed to give you a 360 view of the Smokies, but all I saw were pictures of the mountains that were covered in fog that day. Still, I went up and decided to record myself playing Amazing Grace on my p-Bone. Then, I continued on towards Newfound Gap.

Once at Newfound Gap, the sun had come out from behind the clouds and the parking lot was packed full of people. I don’t know how many people I asked for a ride into town, but everyone said no. It wasn’t until I was on the phone with a shuttle service telling me that it would be at least $60 to pick me up and take me into town, that a man came up and asked me if I needed a ride. I hung up and thanked him profusely. He had just finished a few day section in the Smokies and had space for me in his car. To get to the grocery store that I needed to resupply, we had to drive straight through downtown Gatlinburg. It was madness. The best way I can describe Gatlinburg is it appears how foreigners imagine America to be – not in a good way. I have no desire to ever go back there again unless I’m thru hiking again and am out of food and have no choice.

To get back to Newfound Gap, I called an Uber. I did not want to try and walk through that mess of a town to try and get a hitch and for the distance to get back to the trail, the Uber ride was surprisingly cheap. My driver was so nice, I wish I could remember his name. He was deaf, but he would still ask me questions when he wasn’t driving about what I was doing. More specifically what the black thing on the back of my pack was. I typed my answers for him into his phone and when he dropped me off, he wished me good luck.

Before heading off on the trail again, I got stopped by a family with 2 little girls no older than 6 or 7. They asked me about my hike and I pulled out my pBone to show the girls. The younger one was very shy, but the older sister was more than happy to move my trombone slide for me while I played a note. Any time I am in a young children’s music class and I have my trombone, I let students do that. It seems small, but they are always so excited just to touch the trombone and it feels good to introduce the trombone and music to them in a way that they can participate.

All I had left to hike for the day was 3 miles of steep uphill. A hard climb, but the sun was out so I wasn’t complaining. My miles were kept short today to compensate my 2 hours in Gatlinburg – half of that time spent getting to and from the town. I’m glad it was a shorter day though since I got to camp with Racheal and Braden aka – Soul Sister and Mattress King – that night.

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: I have been referring to some people I’ve met on the trail by their real names and their trail names. I am going to change this by referring to them how I knew them at the point in time that I wrote the journal entry. So no trail names for these people until we get to the point in my journal where they get them. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING

Clingman’s Dome – The tallest point on the AT at 6,643 ft.

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